Cayo Levisa, Cuba – Well shaken after the front passed over us at night we now spend most of the time on board below deck. As supposed the front stalled almost directly over us turning from gusty winds into a drizzeling rain. The mangroves turned into foggy steam baths and the scene changed to a mid fall like ambient light. Still it is different from fall in Europe: The water seems to be greener than ever, swim trunks are all we need. Making use of the rain we slowly fill our watertank, read alot, work a bit… The hotel dock is just one minute across from our anchorage and sailors are welcome there. Cuba Libre and Pina Colada are 3 CUC each and the dinner buffet is 10 (1 EUR = 1.26 CUC / 1 US$ = 0,85 CUC). In a break from the rain yesterday afternoon we took the dinghy ashore had a walk on the beach in white sand, some drinks and waited for the buffet to open. In the restaurant we took our turns three times. – Having no fridge on the boat we maybe apeared to be strange to some people: Toast and butter was a celebration, big portions of salad and fruits also. After that we tried to read minds: The hotel is a perfect place to get away for a few days and enjoy the water, sun and southern life. A place where one rents a hut on the beach for two. A few children are around an most guests seem to be in their early thirtys. They come from Sweden, Germany, Switzerland, France, Spain… How much do they know about Cuba? What is the image they take home from here? Cheap beer, cheap cocktails and a minimalistic buffet? Do they know how that an average Cuban can pay about four visits to this buffet from his monthly income and has to feed a family? – Cuban resort life is far from Cuban life but it is a comfortable life.
Cayo Lavisa, Cuba – What was my image of Cuba before? The more I think the more clear is, there only was one about Havanna. A picture of old colonial buildings, wide streets with walkwys under the shade of trees. Somehow all a little worn out. It was no vision of a country, it was an image of city streets full of life, filled with people, honking cars, bikes and overoccupied busses. It was all there, it was all expected. But as it was supposed to be there, it all was not new. Over night we now arrived in the new. The rural Cuba. The part of the country I had no image and no expectations about. Not even about the landscape. Two hours before sunset wie received the clearence to travel the country and left Marina Hemingway. A trip into the night between less and less lights on our port side and a pitch black Gulf of Mexico to our right. The night was calm. After midnight we motored over a motionless ocean, eight miles off shore to avoid the fishing boats. Cubas coast is steep and here we were already in more than 600 meters of deep water. Long before sunrise a contour of high and many hills was drawn under a slowly illuminating sky. Later these hills formed to an impressevie background of Cuba’s West. The Skyline was not build of sharp rock like mountains. The impression of someone forming and sanding the surface to a smooth shilouette with round tops emerged. Before them a large set of reefs, mangroves and passages between shallow sandbanks opened. We duck behind the mangrove covered Island Cayo Levisa to wait for a strong front to pass. The Anchor slides down in 5 meter deep clear water and diggs in the gras covered bottom of a place I had not in mind when thinking about cuba before.
Still no Wifi to upload some better pictures and share the long story of life on a boat in Cuba. – Just for now: Island time is different, and offers different challenges. But life is good and challenges make the adventure in the end. We are about to leave Havanna tomorrow and than head along the northern coast westward over the next couple of days to reach Mexico early next week.
Working to get the english blog running and besides that: see the big big city
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